So much to update, but so little Internet time...
My last day in Coffee Bay was relaxing on the beach. After a nice time in Coffee Bay I spent the next two days traveling down to Cape Town. The ride from Coffee Bay to Port Elizabeth took most of the day. Then, from PE to Cape Town took about 14 hours.
The five nights in Cape Town were great. A quick overview:
Kirstenbosch Gardens in the rain - even with a heavy downpour it is still worth it
Wine tasting in Stellenbosch - A bit difficult to do with a hangover, but the final winery with cheese tasting was awesome.
Cape Peninsula Tour - Cape of Good Hope, Cape Point, a bike ride, Jackass Penguins, and spectacular views made for a great day.
Table Mountain - What a view!
I just arrived in Kenya and I head out on a 2 1/2 week safari from Nairobi to Zanzibar. I hope to post more details when I arrive in Zanzibar.
Race Update - The legs are about 90% recovered. The climb up Table Mountain was a good test for them, and I think I could start training for my next race if I wanted - but that will have to wait until I get back home...
Saturday, June 30, 2007
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Alive and kickn'
Hey all,
I’m still alive and walking. I managed to finish the race with a time of 11 hours and 55 minutes. The race has a cutoff of 12 hours so I just barely managed to make it. Regardless, of the time I still can’t believe I finished. Around 15k my right leg started to get a cramp and it lingered the majority of the race. Luckily, they had volunteers that would rub down your legs with ice and oil to help work out cramps. I don’t think I could have finished without them. The race is like nothing I have every conquered before. It was physically and mentally one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done, but I’ve already told myself that I will be back next year for the up run.The rest of my trip is going great. I’ve landed in a small town called Coffee Bay, and I’m enjoying a bit of rest. I’ll be in South Africa for the rest of the month then I’m off to Kenya and Tanzania.
I’m still alive and walking. I managed to finish the race with a time of 11 hours and 55 minutes. The race has a cutoff of 12 hours so I just barely managed to make it. Regardless, of the time I still can’t believe I finished. Around 15k my right leg started to get a cramp and it lingered the majority of the race. Luckily, they had volunteers that would rub down your legs with ice and oil to help work out cramps. I don’t think I could have finished without them. The race is like nothing I have every conquered before. It was physically and mentally one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done, but I’ve already told myself that I will be back next year for the up run.The rest of my trip is going great. I’ve landed in a small town called Coffee Bay, and I’m enjoying a bit of rest. I’ll be in South Africa for the rest of the month then I’m off to Kenya and Tanzania.
Hole In The Wall
21-June “Hole In The Wall”
I get up feeling much better, and make myself some breakfast. Also, I’ve decided that I’m going to go do the Hole in the Wall hike. I debated the night before and the morning if my legs are up fort it and decided I should be able to do it.
Three of us plus a walking guide take a van out to the main site. Then, we will walk about 10k along the coast back to the hostel. The Hole in the Wall is a large rock in the ocean what has had a hole cut out from the crashing waves. I was a great site.
The walk along the coast was nice, but a little hilly. My legs were defiantly feeling tender by the end.
I’m glad that I stopped here in Coffee Bay.
I get up feeling much better, and make myself some breakfast. Also, I’ve decided that I’m going to go do the Hole in the Wall hike. I debated the night before and the morning if my legs are up fort it and decided I should be able to do it.
Three of us plus a walking guide take a van out to the main site. Then, we will walk about 10k along the coast back to the hostel. The Hole in the Wall is a large rock in the ocean what has had a hole cut out from the crashing waves. I was a great site.
The walk along the coast was nice, but a little hilly. My legs were defiantly feeling tender by the end.
I’m glad that I stopped here in Coffee Bay.
Bad Baz Bus, Bad
20-June “Bad Baz Bus, Bad”My alarm goes off at 6:00. I throw everything into my bag and go downstairs to pay my bill. The girl at the desk tells me that I have about 30 minutes until the time they usually show up. I walk over to the ever popular kwiki mart to get breakfast. Ten minutes after getting back the bus is ready to go.
I’m the first pickup. I ask the driver how many there will be and he says about seven. I stake out the front row and lay down. We pick up a few others in Durban and go down the coast. I try to sleep as much as I can on the way.
The day before I had changed my mind on where I’m going. I was going to go straight to Port Elizabeth, but I heard so many good things about a place called Coffee Bay I decided to alter my plans.
We get to the closest city after an eight hour drive. My back hurts from the uncomfortable seats and I am still groggy from the night before. We get picked up by one of the hostels from Coffee Bay at a gas station. The next part of the drive is about 100k or 90 minutes.
The place is very cool, and I’m already glad that I changed my plans. When we arrive I go to my Hostel called Bomvu (meaning is red in the local language) while the rest of the van goes to the other hostel called Coffee Shack. Bomvu is defiantly the cooler looking place, but Coffee Shack is the livelier place. All the backpackers end up going over to Coffee Shack anyway after hours to drink so it doesn’t really matter where you stay.
I’m still beat from the night before and manage to only make it out until 10:00.
I’m the first pickup. I ask the driver how many there will be and he says about seven. I stake out the front row and lay down. We pick up a few others in Durban and go down the coast. I try to sleep as much as I can on the way.
The day before I had changed my mind on where I’m going. I was going to go straight to Port Elizabeth, but I heard so many good things about a place called Coffee Bay I decided to alter my plans.
We get to the closest city after an eight hour drive. My back hurts from the uncomfortable seats and I am still groggy from the night before. We get picked up by one of the hostels from Coffee Bay at a gas station. The next part of the drive is about 100k or 90 minutes.
The place is very cool, and I’m already glad that I changed my plans. When we arrive I go to my Hostel called Bomvu (meaning is red in the local language) while the rest of the van goes to the other hostel called Coffee Shack. Bomvu is defiantly the cooler looking place, but Coffee Shack is the livelier place. All the backpackers end up going over to Coffee Shack anyway after hours to drink so it doesn’t really matter where you stay.
I’m still beat from the night before and manage to only make it out until 10:00.
Recovery Continues
19-June “Recovery Continues”Today my goal is to go for a walk and get some of the toxins in my legs out. A couple of us walk down to the beach. One of the girls has to catch a flight at the airport. I mention I’m going to walk down to the casino (about 3k down the beach). The other girl decides to join me.
The walk is tough but feels good. We have to stop and rest a few times, but the majority of the way my legs feel pretty good. At the casino we stop inside to look around. I’m disappointed. It has a Miami theme and looks like a typical Las Vegas casino, but there is hardly anybody there.
On the walk back we stop for a beer. Then, we continue back to the hostel. On the way back she talks to one of the guys she went surfing with earlier in the week and asks where to go out in Durban. He tells us to get a group together and he’ll take us out.
After relaxing in the hostel three of us decide to go out on the town in Durban. This will be my first night out in South Africa, so I’m very curious what it is like. We meet the other guys at a bar in uShaka. Then, walk to their apartment to get their car. You don’t want to walk at night. It is a Tuesday and the off season, so they are struggling on where to go. The first bar we go to is not open, so we go to the casino bar until something better comes to mind. Unfortunately, it wasn’t busy and the music was crap.
After a couple of hours we leave for Florida Street. I had heard this is the area to go a couple of nights ago, so I’m pretty excited. We all pile into the car and end up at a bar called Casablanca. This is much much better. The crowd was younger and the music was at least current, not necessarily good. We end up staying until 4:00. I mention that I have a bus to catch at 6:30 and we need to get back to the hostel.
I get to bed as quickly as I can.
The walk is tough but feels good. We have to stop and rest a few times, but the majority of the way my legs feel pretty good. At the casino we stop inside to look around. I’m disappointed. It has a Miami theme and looks like a typical Las Vegas casino, but there is hardly anybody there.
On the walk back we stop for a beer. Then, we continue back to the hostel. On the way back she talks to one of the guys she went surfing with earlier in the week and asks where to go out in Durban. He tells us to get a group together and he’ll take us out.
After relaxing in the hostel three of us decide to go out on the town in Durban. This will be my first night out in South Africa, so I’m very curious what it is like. We meet the other guys at a bar in uShaka. Then, walk to their apartment to get their car. You don’t want to walk at night. It is a Tuesday and the off season, so they are struggling on where to go. The first bar we go to is not open, so we go to the casino bar until something better comes to mind. Unfortunately, it wasn’t busy and the music was crap.
After a couple of hours we leave for Florida Street. I had heard this is the area to go a couple of nights ago, so I’m pretty excited. We all pile into the car and end up at a bar called Casablanca. This is much much better. The crowd was younger and the music was at least current, not necessarily good. We end up staying until 4:00. I mention that I have a bus to catch at 6:30 and we need to get back to the hostel.
I get to bed as quickly as I can.
Recovery
18-June “Recovery”I get up and I’m feeling much better than I thought I would. I manage to walk around and can even go up and down stairs – be it very very slowly.
The big event of the day is walking over to the uShaka food court for lunch. A few naps later and I order take away for dinner. Then, go up to the bar for a few beers and chat with a few other runners and people staying in the hostel, but I’m in bed fairly early.
The big event of the day is walking over to the uShaka food court for lunch. A few naps later and I order take away for dinner. Then, go up to the bar for a few beers and chat with a few other runners and people staying in the hostel, but I’m in bed fairly early.
The Race
17-June “The Race”Beep. Beep. Beep. It is 2:00 am and my alarm is going off. I probably get an hour or two of sleep last night. I hop out of bed and get dressed. I take the rest of my gear outside the room so I don’t disturb the others sleeping. The other runners in the hostel are moving around and we are already to go by 2:30.
Five of us get into a little Toyota taxi to take us to the bus pick up point. We get to the hotel and we all unload. As soon as the driver takes off I realize my phone fell off my race belt and is still in the car. I look down the street and he is long gone. I run into the hotel and ask if I can call my cell phone. The driver answers and says he will bring it back. I’m thinking I have a 20% chance he will actually bring it back. After 15 minutes he actually comes back. I give him a 100 Rand. The actual odds of him coming back were more likely 1:10,000 according to other locals.
With my phone in hand I get on the transport bus and try to sleep during the 90 minute ride to the start. I get off and run into one of the guys from the taxi and he could not believe I got the phone back. The temperature is just around freezing, so we get some coffee from one of the tents. The next 45 minutes is just a wait to the start.
It is 5:20 and the national anthem of South Africa plays. Then, the theme song from Chariots of Fire plays and it is 5:30 am. Bang! The gun fires and we are all off. The beginning is just like other big races. There are times of quickness and slowness because of the large number of people. A few people are already asking me where I’m from because of my blue number. All foreign runners get a blue number, so it is easy for people to know you are visiting.
The beginning pace is a little quick, but I expected it to be. After a few kilometers I settle into my pace. The goal is to finish is 10:30. I purchased a nice pace card that wraps around your wrist at the expo to make sure I’m on track.
The first 20k feels good except a tweak in my right leg is defiantly going to get worse as the race continues. I’m a little ahead of my pace, but I expected to be because of the adrenalin and excitement. Along the way people are out along the side of the road cheering. The little kids are begging you for your gloves and shirts. When you throw away your long sleeve shirt and your gloves they fight for them. People are yelling out your name because it is printed on the race number. It is a definite help to hear your name when your in a tough patch.
Coming up on the half way point my right leg is defiantly feeling cramped. I know it is going to be a problem for the rest of the race. We have already walked up the backside of the most demanding hill, Polly Shorts, during the up years. I walk up most of the other big hills with the rest of the pack, but at the half way point everybody is running again. There are tons of people cheering and music is rocking as you cross the half way point. People are on their cell phones calling and texting people that they are half way. At this point I’m about 15 minutes ahead of my pace, but I already know I will have to change my goal.
The next 20k is tough on the legs, especially the right one. My cramp comes and goes, and I stop at a rub down station for the first time. Volunteers will rub down your legs with oil and/or ice. This helps tremendously and without them I could not have completed the race. My mind is doing fine for most of the next 20k. I have no doubt that I will finish, but with what time is my only thought.
I set my next mile stone to be the last 21k which is about the distance of a half marathon. I know I can do one any day of the week, so I keep telling myself it is almost over. Spectators continue to cheer and yell out that you are doing great. Along the way you chat with others running. We all give each other encouragement. For about two hours I run with another guy from the area of Johannesburg. We run for five minutes then walk for a couple, continuing to encourage the other to keep moving. Eventually, I tell him to go on because I’m holding him back.
I’ve got 15k to go. My next milestone that I had set for myself is the 10k mark. I need to finish the last 15k with an average of nine minutes per kilometer to finish.
At the 10k mark one of the first guys I ran with at the beginning yells out my name. I run with him and another runner until the last 4k. I tell them I’ll see them at the finish and stretch my leg for a moment. The last 3 kilometers hurts after the last hill we came down. I now know what the guide meant by pain after Field Hill. I continue on for 2k walking and running. I’ve improved my pace and it looks like I will finish in time. Regardless, I want to “run” the last kilometer into the stadium. I get to the 1k marker and make my shuffle into a full stride, be it small, but a stride.
There are still people on the streets cheering. The sun is setting and the lights of the stadium are easily in view. We run through a fence then along side the outside wall of the Cricket Stadium. Another turn and I’m running through a tunnel onto the field. A sign says 300m to go. I manage to finish with a time of 11 hours and 55 minutes.
A guy hands me my medal and patch. I get to the finishers area and look for others that I had been running with. I bump into one guy that I ran with for awhile and we congratulate each other.
I’m exhausted, but full of excitement.
This is without a doubt the single most difficult thing I have done in my life. I could combine every single race I’ve done in my life and put them together and they still would not equate to the Comrades Race. This race makes the Big Sur and San Francisco Marathons look like a weekend walk in the park.
My thanks goes out to everyone of the people cheering, all the race organizers and the other runners that encouraged me along.
I get back to the hostel by catching a ride with another runner. After a shower I take a three hour nap. I get up and go to the kwiki mart next door to grab some food. Then, I’m back in bed for a hard night’s sleep.
Five of us get into a little Toyota taxi to take us to the bus pick up point. We get to the hotel and we all unload. As soon as the driver takes off I realize my phone fell off my race belt and is still in the car. I look down the street and he is long gone. I run into the hotel and ask if I can call my cell phone. The driver answers and says he will bring it back. I’m thinking I have a 20% chance he will actually bring it back. After 15 minutes he actually comes back. I give him a 100 Rand. The actual odds of him coming back were more likely 1:10,000 according to other locals.
With my phone in hand I get on the transport bus and try to sleep during the 90 minute ride to the start. I get off and run into one of the guys from the taxi and he could not believe I got the phone back. The temperature is just around freezing, so we get some coffee from one of the tents. The next 45 minutes is just a wait to the start.
It is 5:20 and the national anthem of South Africa plays. Then, the theme song from Chariots of Fire plays and it is 5:30 am. Bang! The gun fires and we are all off. The beginning is just like other big races. There are times of quickness and slowness because of the large number of people. A few people are already asking me where I’m from because of my blue number. All foreign runners get a blue number, so it is easy for people to know you are visiting.
The beginning pace is a little quick, but I expected it to be. After a few kilometers I settle into my pace. The goal is to finish is 10:30. I purchased a nice pace card that wraps around your wrist at the expo to make sure I’m on track.
The first 20k feels good except a tweak in my right leg is defiantly going to get worse as the race continues. I’m a little ahead of my pace, but I expected to be because of the adrenalin and excitement. Along the way people are out along the side of the road cheering. The little kids are begging you for your gloves and shirts. When you throw away your long sleeve shirt and your gloves they fight for them. People are yelling out your name because it is printed on the race number. It is a definite help to hear your name when your in a tough patch.
Coming up on the half way point my right leg is defiantly feeling cramped. I know it is going to be a problem for the rest of the race. We have already walked up the backside of the most demanding hill, Polly Shorts, during the up years. I walk up most of the other big hills with the rest of the pack, but at the half way point everybody is running again. There are tons of people cheering and music is rocking as you cross the half way point. People are on their cell phones calling and texting people that they are half way. At this point I’m about 15 minutes ahead of my pace, but I already know I will have to change my goal.
The next 20k is tough on the legs, especially the right one. My cramp comes and goes, and I stop at a rub down station for the first time. Volunteers will rub down your legs with oil and/or ice. This helps tremendously and without them I could not have completed the race. My mind is doing fine for most of the next 20k. I have no doubt that I will finish, but with what time is my only thought.
I set my next mile stone to be the last 21k which is about the distance of a half marathon. I know I can do one any day of the week, so I keep telling myself it is almost over. Spectators continue to cheer and yell out that you are doing great. Along the way you chat with others running. We all give each other encouragement. For about two hours I run with another guy from the area of Johannesburg. We run for five minutes then walk for a couple, continuing to encourage the other to keep moving. Eventually, I tell him to go on because I’m holding him back.
I’ve got 15k to go. My next milestone that I had set for myself is the 10k mark. I need to finish the last 15k with an average of nine minutes per kilometer to finish.
At the 10k mark one of the first guys I ran with at the beginning yells out my name. I run with him and another runner until the last 4k. I tell them I’ll see them at the finish and stretch my leg for a moment. The last 3 kilometers hurts after the last hill we came down. I now know what the guide meant by pain after Field Hill. I continue on for 2k walking and running. I’ve improved my pace and it looks like I will finish in time. Regardless, I want to “run” the last kilometer into the stadium. I get to the 1k marker and make my shuffle into a full stride, be it small, but a stride.
There are still people on the streets cheering. The sun is setting and the lights of the stadium are easily in view. We run through a fence then along side the outside wall of the Cricket Stadium. Another turn and I’m running through a tunnel onto the field. A sign says 300m to go. I manage to finish with a time of 11 hours and 55 minutes.
A guy hands me my medal and patch. I get to the finishers area and look for others that I had been running with. I bump into one guy that I ran with for awhile and we congratulate each other.
I’m exhausted, but full of excitement.
This is without a doubt the single most difficult thing I have done in my life. I could combine every single race I’ve done in my life and put them together and they still would not equate to the Comrades Race. This race makes the Big Sur and San Francisco Marathons look like a weekend walk in the park.
My thanks goes out to everyone of the people cheering, all the race organizers and the other runners that encouraged me along.
I get back to the hostel by catching a ride with another runner. After a shower I take a three hour nap. I get up and go to the kwiki mart next door to grab some food. Then, I’m back in bed for a hard night’s sleep.
24 Hours To Go
16-June “24 Hours To Go”I get up at the usual early hour and have a bit of breakfast. I wanted to see the Victoria Market today and few others wanted to join me. The market is an Indian market in the city of Durban. Indians were brought over as indentured slaves and then eventually created their own business and congregated to an area of the city.
When we got there we saw everything within 30 minutes. It was very overrated. I was expecting something closer to the excitement of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. Also, it was Youth Day, so shops were naturally less busy.
We took a mini taxi back to the Happy Hippo Hostel. The mini taxis in Durban are like no others I’ve seen in the rest of the country. They all have paint jobs and sayings on the side. Then, when you get in the bass from the music vibrates everything. It is a lot more fun ride in Durban then elsewhere in the country.
I relax for the rest of the day and order some food for dinner around 7:00. The nervousness is starting to set in. I spend the next couple of hours chatting with those running the race and others that think we are insane.
At 9:30 I take a shower and get all my race gear setup for the next day. I lay out my clothes, ensure my race number is properly pinned to my shirt, attach the racing chip to my shoe, and pack my race belt with all my gels and bars.
I lay in bed and put on the iPod hopping to get a few hours of sleep.
When we got there we saw everything within 30 minutes. It was very overrated. I was expecting something closer to the excitement of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. Also, it was Youth Day, so shops were naturally less busy.
We took a mini taxi back to the Happy Hippo Hostel. The mini taxis in Durban are like no others I’ve seen in the rest of the country. They all have paint jobs and sayings on the side. Then, when you get in the bass from the music vibrates everything. It is a lot more fun ride in Durban then elsewhere in the country.
I relax for the rest of the day and order some food for dinner around 7:00. The nervousness is starting to set in. I spend the next couple of hours chatting with those running the race and others that think we are insane.
At 9:30 I take a shower and get all my race gear setup for the next day. I lay out my clothes, ensure my race number is properly pinned to my shirt, attach the racing chip to my shoe, and pack my race belt with all my gels and bars.
I lay in bed and put on the iPod hopping to get a few hours of sleep.
Comrades Expo
15-June “Comrades Expo”Up at 6:00 and excited to see the course. I’m out the door by 6:30 and decide to walk to the convention center. In retrospect this was probably not the brightest idea. On the way I’m offered cocaine at least four times and one guy insists on walking me all the way to my destination. I tell him at least 10 times that I don’t need him to take me, but I don’t want to rustle any feathers. He walks me to the convention center and give him 10 Rand for not mugging me. I’m a little early and ask one of the persons where to go and he tell me I’ve got about 45 minutes, and the only safe place to get a cup of coffee is at the Hilton Hotel across the street. Eight o’clock comes and the buses are ready to load up and take us on the tour.
We drive up to Pietermaritzburg on the standard highway and stop at the Comrades House. On the bus, the guy on the microphone has done the race 20+ times and continually gives us tips on the way up. At the Comrades House we have tea, coffee and snacks. They give us about an hour to walk around and chat with others.
We start to go back along the actual race route. Our guide continues to give us advice along the way. The one that sticks with me is that you must be willing to change your goal along the way instead of trying to make up time. I will be using this on race day. We make stops at Arthur’s seat, the wall of honor and a school for physically challenged children. The kids at the school sing for us and wish us well. Some runners brought clothes and we all donated money to the school. The rest of the ride back our guide continued to give us advice for the run.
We arrive back at the convention center. I go inside to register and browse around the expo. It is a decent expo with all the usual brands: Nike, Rebook, Runners World, etc. I grab some souvenirs for the race and grab lunch at the food court.
The rest of the day is spent around the hostel.
We drive up to Pietermaritzburg on the standard highway and stop at the Comrades House. On the bus, the guy on the microphone has done the race 20+ times and continually gives us tips on the way up. At the Comrades House we have tea, coffee and snacks. They give us about an hour to walk around and chat with others.
We start to go back along the actual race route. Our guide continues to give us advice along the way. The one that sticks with me is that you must be willing to change your goal along the way instead of trying to make up time. I will be using this on race day. We make stops at Arthur’s seat, the wall of honor and a school for physically challenged children. The kids at the school sing for us and wish us well. Some runners brought clothes and we all donated money to the school. The rest of the ride back our guide continued to give us advice for the run.
We arrive back at the convention center. I go inside to register and browse around the expo. It is a decent expo with all the usual brands: Nike, Rebook, Runners World, etc. I grab some souvenirs for the race and grab lunch at the food court.
The rest of the day is spent around the hostel.
Durban Here I Come
14-June “Durban Here I Come”The Baz Bus picks us up early around 7:00 and we head out on a very long drive to Durban. On the way we drop off/pickup people. The benefit of the Baz Bus is starting to kick in. We pick up some people that were riding with me before. We get the opportunity to exchange where we stayed and what we did. Also, we hear from other where to stay and not to stay. This is good because I had booked a room in Durban at a hostel called Banana Backpackers. Lonely Planet had an ok review of the place and the location was central to the race. I quickly found out that I would need to change my location because multiple people called the place a jail. To be fair, they said the owner was nice, but the location was in the center of the city and the noise was unbearable. A bunch of us decide that we are going to stay at the Happy Hippo based on a couple people’s review. We get to the hostel and thank goodness I switched. The Happy Hippo is brand new (3 months old) and is next to uShaka, a marine world theme park. The place is immaculate and in a fairly safe area. I end up sharing a room with another guy. The funny thing is he is from California and we have the same name. I get to bed early – again to get up in time for the bus tour of the race course.
Hlane Game Reserve
13-June “Hlane Game Reserve”The next morning I went for a quick run and then caught the shuttle into town. My goal for today is to see cats at the Hlane game reserve on the other side of Swaziland. To get there I need to take a mini taxi to the next major city and then a bus to the park. Up until now I’ve only heard stories about mini buses. It ends up being exactly what I heard. You climb into a van that seats about 12, but there are at least 15 people inside. It is a good and cheap way to get around if you know what to do. To go about 15 km it cost $0.20. I get dropped off at the main bus exchange which is a crazy place. People are selling all sorts of stuff; a hundred mini taxis are trying to load themselves up with people, and buses everywhere. It is a great site to see. Also, I’m the only white person around and get pounced upon immediately. “Where you go?” “Where you go?” “We take you” I finally get to the correct bus and wait to depart. The drive is about an 90 minutes and the bus stops at the game park.
I get off with two women that work at the park, and they promise me that I’m going to see cats today. The entrance fee is $4 and the main area is setup very nice. Between Hlane and Milwane parks I’m impressed with what Swaziland has done. I find the activities center to see if I’m going to be able to go on a game drive. When I was leaving the hostel I was told it would be a 50/50 chance of getting on a game drive without a reservation. The woman asks how many will be on the drive and obviously it is just me. She tells me two drivers are out right now and there is a possibility of going out at 11:00. Also, If I can’t find another person I would have to pay the single supplement (really I’m just paying for two). It costs $23/person and I came to far to not see this reserve, so I tell her I’ll pay the $46 fee. Eleven o’clock comes and goes and there is nobody to be found. Finally, at 11:30 she tells me there is another four people that want to go. We set off in a Land Rover and I tell everybody I don’t care about seeing anything but cats. There are loads of impala. Then, we come upon two elephants at a watering hole. We sit and watch them for about 20 minutes. One comes up to the vehicle and looks like he wants to challenge it. The driver turns off the engine and after a few moments it goes back to the watering hole.
The park is tiny in comparison to Kruger. Kruger is about the size of New Jersey where Swaziland in total is less than that size. Because the park is small they have to keep the lions in a separate fenced off section because they would be eating McDonalds (impala) everyday. We drive around in the cat section and one of the passengers yells out lions! There is a pride hidden in the bush just off the road. The driver moves forward and backward to allow us to see. Then, he turns the next corner in the road and we have an even better view. Next, he decides to drive into the bush over shrubs and plants to get an even better view. The lions move a bit and look cautiously at us, but don’t care to much. There is no way this would be allowed in Kruger. I’m very happy.
After watching the lions for 15-20 minutes we leave the cat area of the park. We ask the driver if there are leopards and cheatahs because the books say the park has them, but he gives us an answer that makes us doubt the park actually has them. Our next game viewing opportunity is a white rhinoceros. We spot it close to the road, but it gets startled and runs into the bush. The driver stops the Land Rover and tells us to get out. We’re going to chase it. We all look at each other and get out to go after it. Keeping quite the entire time I’m thinking is it wise to be chasing a very very large animal with a horn on foot in the bush of South Africa? Ah, so what I can climb a tree, I just hope the others can too. We spot it again in but it gets startled and runs off. After about 10 minutes of trying to catch it we go back to the road and start driving back to the main camp. Luckily, we spot two giraffes and stop for a second. These animals are the driver’s favorite so he has a very satisfied grin on his face. He says he never gets tired of watching them and likes them because they never think the Land Rover is a threat.
I’m happy that I saw lions, but now I need to get back to the hostel and I’m on the other side of Swaziland. I take a few more shots of the hippos in the distance and the two rhinos we chased decided to get a drink of water at the fenced off watering hole.
The shuttle driver said he would wait until 5:00 for me at the fruit market he dropped me off at. It is already 2:45 and I’m on the other side of Swaziland. I walk out to the road and wait for the bus. One goes by. Another goes by. I realize that they are not going to stop. I have two options – 1. Hitch a ride to the Manzini where I caught the bus to start or catch a mini taxi to the next town where the bus terminates. Mini taxi after mini taxi drives by full. After an hour waiting a mini taxi finally stops and takes me to the bus station. I realize it is going to be close if I’m going to make it to pickup point on time. On the way the bus stops for other people on the side of the road with no problem. I can’t figure out why it wouldn’t stop for me. At least I’m on my way. In Manzini I catch another mini taxi that squeezes at least 20 of in. We are going no more than 5 mph up some of the hills. There is no way I’m going to make 5:00. I get dropped off and the sun is setting. I look at my watch and it is almost 5:30. Looking around I realize I need to quickly figure out how to get back to the hostel, and the only option is to hitch a ride from somebody. A very nice couple offer me a ride and tell me I should not be out alone in this area after dark. They drive me to the hostel door and wish me well.
Another load of people have arrived and it has started to rain. The two previous nights we ate dinner out by the camp fire, but now everybody is inside. This actually made for a better time, and conversation was flowing among everybody. I’m now so used to getting up early I have to go to bed by 10:00. As, I’m getting ready for bed I realize I have not been out to a bar since I arrived in South Africa.
I get off with two women that work at the park, and they promise me that I’m going to see cats today. The entrance fee is $4 and the main area is setup very nice. Between Hlane and Milwane parks I’m impressed with what Swaziland has done. I find the activities center to see if I’m going to be able to go on a game drive. When I was leaving the hostel I was told it would be a 50/50 chance of getting on a game drive without a reservation. The woman asks how many will be on the drive and obviously it is just me. She tells me two drivers are out right now and there is a possibility of going out at 11:00. Also, If I can’t find another person I would have to pay the single supplement (really I’m just paying for two). It costs $23/person and I came to far to not see this reserve, so I tell her I’ll pay the $46 fee. Eleven o’clock comes and goes and there is nobody to be found. Finally, at 11:30 she tells me there is another four people that want to go. We set off in a Land Rover and I tell everybody I don’t care about seeing anything but cats. There are loads of impala. Then, we come upon two elephants at a watering hole. We sit and watch them for about 20 minutes. One comes up to the vehicle and looks like he wants to challenge it. The driver turns off the engine and after a few moments it goes back to the watering hole.
The park is tiny in comparison to Kruger. Kruger is about the size of New Jersey where Swaziland in total is less than that size. Because the park is small they have to keep the lions in a separate fenced off section because they would be eating McDonalds (impala) everyday. We drive around in the cat section and one of the passengers yells out lions! There is a pride hidden in the bush just off the road. The driver moves forward and backward to allow us to see. Then, he turns the next corner in the road and we have an even better view. Next, he decides to drive into the bush over shrubs and plants to get an even better view. The lions move a bit and look cautiously at us, but don’t care to much. There is no way this would be allowed in Kruger. I’m very happy.
After watching the lions for 15-20 minutes we leave the cat area of the park. We ask the driver if there are leopards and cheatahs because the books say the park has them, but he gives us an answer that makes us doubt the park actually has them. Our next game viewing opportunity is a white rhinoceros. We spot it close to the road, but it gets startled and runs into the bush. The driver stops the Land Rover and tells us to get out. We’re going to chase it. We all look at each other and get out to go after it. Keeping quite the entire time I’m thinking is it wise to be chasing a very very large animal with a horn on foot in the bush of South Africa? Ah, so what I can climb a tree, I just hope the others can too. We spot it again in but it gets startled and runs off. After about 10 minutes of trying to catch it we go back to the road and start driving back to the main camp. Luckily, we spot two giraffes and stop for a second. These animals are the driver’s favorite so he has a very satisfied grin on his face. He says he never gets tired of watching them and likes them because they never think the Land Rover is a threat.
I’m happy that I saw lions, but now I need to get back to the hostel and I’m on the other side of Swaziland. I take a few more shots of the hippos in the distance and the two rhinos we chased decided to get a drink of water at the fenced off watering hole.
The shuttle driver said he would wait until 5:00 for me at the fruit market he dropped me off at. It is already 2:45 and I’m on the other side of Swaziland. I walk out to the road and wait for the bus. One goes by. Another goes by. I realize that they are not going to stop. I have two options – 1. Hitch a ride to the Manzini where I caught the bus to start or catch a mini taxi to the next town where the bus terminates. Mini taxi after mini taxi drives by full. After an hour waiting a mini taxi finally stops and takes me to the bus station. I realize it is going to be close if I’m going to make it to pickup point on time. On the way the bus stops for other people on the side of the road with no problem. I can’t figure out why it wouldn’t stop for me. At least I’m on my way. In Manzini I catch another mini taxi that squeezes at least 20 of in. We are going no more than 5 mph up some of the hills. There is no way I’m going to make 5:00. I get dropped off and the sun is setting. I look at my watch and it is almost 5:30. Looking around I realize I need to quickly figure out how to get back to the hostel, and the only option is to hitch a ride from somebody. A very nice couple offer me a ride and tell me I should not be out alone in this area after dark. They drive me to the hostel door and wish me well.
Another load of people have arrived and it has started to rain. The two previous nights we ate dinner out by the camp fire, but now everybody is inside. This actually made for a better time, and conversation was flowing among everybody. I’m now so used to getting up early I have to go to bed by 10:00. As, I’m getting ready for bed I realize I have not been out to a bar since I arrived in South Africa.
Milwane Reserve
12-June “Milwane Reserve”I wanted to stay at this hostel because it is inside the reserve and the activities look like fun. They have hiking, mountain biking, and horse riding. The animals in the park are not a threat to people walking around.
I decide to start the day with a two hour mountain bike ride. I get the bike at the rental and the tires are completely flat. The woman tries to tell me it is the shocks that make the tire look flat. I insist on getting a pump and fill them up. When I returned two guys were taking all the bikes down and pumping them with air. Anyway, biking was great. There are warthogs, zebra, and all types of antelope roaming around. In the distance you can hear baboons in the trees, but I couldn’t see them.
After the biking I stopped to see the hippo at the watering hole. They don’t do much during the day except sleep, so I got some nice rear-end shots. I continued to do some hiking for the rest of the day.
The hostel is fairly quiet. I’d say it is about 25% full because it is the off season. Still dinner was good again and some other people came in on the Baz Bus.
I decide to start the day with a two hour mountain bike ride. I get the bike at the rental and the tires are completely flat. The woman tries to tell me it is the shocks that make the tire look flat. I insist on getting a pump and fill them up. When I returned two guys were taking all the bikes down and pumping them with air. Anyway, biking was great. There are warthogs, zebra, and all types of antelope roaming around. In the distance you can hear baboons in the trees, but I couldn’t see them.
After the biking I stopped to see the hippo at the watering hole. They don’t do much during the day except sleep, so I got some nice rear-end shots. I continued to do some hiking for the rest of the day.
The hostel is fairly quiet. I’d say it is about 25% full because it is the off season. Still dinner was good again and some other people came in on the Baz Bus.
Onto Swaziland
11-June “Onto Swaziland”Up early and feeling much better. I get in a 40 minute run around the hostel. I’m picked up by the Baz Bus for the first time at 9:00. I’ve taken a similar transport company in Turkey and kind of know what to expect. The coach seats 16 people and the seats are a little smaller than a typical Greyhound bus, but the convenience of them picking you up at your hostel is well worth it. The cost is defiantly higher than using regular buses, but then you have to figure out how to get to a bus station and then to the next hostel. All in all it is not that bad of a deal. Also, you get to meet other people traveling and learn where to go and what hostels are good places to stay.
The drive to Swaziland takes all day. We get to the border and pass threw immigration and are back on the coach within 20 minutes. We continue to drive for another 45 minutes. The coach is split between staying at two hostels. Mine is dropped off first at a restaurant where the hostel will run a shuttle to pick us up. The hostel name is Sondzela and is inside one of the game reserves of Swaziland. We arrive just in time for dinner. For about $6 we get an enormous plate of food. Tonight is impala stew with rice. When we were driving at Kruger our guide told us to look at the rear of the impala and notice the marking make the letter M. Because of their abundance they are know as the McDonalds of the bush. It wasn’t bad, and was very similar to venison in North America.
The drive to Swaziland takes all day. We get to the border and pass threw immigration and are back on the coach within 20 minutes. We continue to drive for another 45 minutes. The coach is split between staying at two hostels. Mine is dropped off first at a restaurant where the hostel will run a shuttle to pick us up. The hostel name is Sondzela and is inside one of the game reserves of Swaziland. We arrive just in time for dinner. For about $6 we get an enormous plate of food. Tonight is impala stew with rice. When we were driving at Kruger our guide told us to look at the rear of the impala and notice the marking make the letter M. Because of their abundance they are know as the McDonalds of the bush. It wasn’t bad, and was very similar to venison in North America.
Jane Goodall Chimpanzee Institute
10-June “Jane Goodall Chimpanzee InstituteIt is now hard to not get up at 5:00 am. I manage to sleep to 6:00, but it just isn’t possible. Before breakfast one of the staff members takes our group out to the main chimp area and gives us an overview of the institute and its main purpose.
We have an enormous breakfast and are given time to wander the lodge and surrounding reserve area. I spot a couple of giraffes in the distance and watch them for a half hour.
Around 9:00 we have a full tour of the grounds. This now includes the other people staying at the lodge and a few others that came for the day. The institute is very interesting. It was setup to rescue chimpanzees that have been pets, used for entertainment or any other reason. One of the chimps was an attraction at a bar in Algeria. When he arrived he was an alcoholic, smoked and could supposedly light his own cigarettes. There are about 30 or so chimps being rehabilitated to go back into the wild and they expect to have over 100 by next year.
By 1:00 we are on the coach and heading back to Johannesburg. I sleep most of the way. We stop a few times to get gas and food at gas stations. Every gas station has a Steers restaurant and the standard quickie mart food. I had a Steers burger once and that was enough for my lifetime. I’m sticking to the chicken pies no matter how bad they are.
I get to Diamond Diggers again. I get dressed to go for a run but the chicken and mushroom pie feels terrible in my stomach and I lay down and don’t get up until the next morning.
We have an enormous breakfast and are given time to wander the lodge and surrounding reserve area. I spot a couple of giraffes in the distance and watch them for a half hour.
Around 9:00 we have a full tour of the grounds. This now includes the other people staying at the lodge and a few others that came for the day. The institute is very interesting. It was setup to rescue chimpanzees that have been pets, used for entertainment or any other reason. One of the chimps was an attraction at a bar in Algeria. When he arrived he was an alcoholic, smoked and could supposedly light his own cigarettes. There are about 30 or so chimps being rehabilitated to go back into the wild and they expect to have over 100 by next year.
By 1:00 we are on the coach and heading back to Johannesburg. I sleep most of the way. We stop a few times to get gas and food at gas stations. Every gas station has a Steers restaurant and the standard quickie mart food. I had a Steers burger once and that was enough for my lifetime. I’m sticking to the chicken pies no matter how bad they are.
I get to Diamond Diggers again. I get dressed to go for a run but the chicken and mushroom pie feels terrible in my stomach and I lay down and don’t get up until the next morning.
Kruger Day Three
9-June “Kruger Day Three”Up at 5:154 am again with the same coffee and biscuit routine. We have about 16 total people so we split into two groups. Mine heads out on foot for a bush walk the other departs by Land Rover. We walk for about 45 minutes only finding fresh prints but no animals. At the half way point the Land Rover finds us and we switch. This is our last opportunity to see a lion or leopard, but after driving for another 45-60 minutes we unfortunately only see a few birds. We’re back to camp by 9:00 and it is time to pack up and depart for the panorama portion of the tour. One unfortunate thing is that the American students signed up for the day four tour and most of the others did not. I’ve got to stomach another day of drunk Cape Town stories…
The area we go to is the Blyde Rive Canyon. It is the third largest canyon in the world. We stop at four main view points which are all incredible views.1. The Three Rondavels – A look out over part of the canyon where in the distance there are three rock formations that look like a rondavel. A rondavel is a circle looking home with a straw roof.2. Bourke’s Luck Potholes – an area where the river flowed and the whirlpool action of the current carved out circular holes in the canyon rocks below. 3. Berlin Waterfall – a nice waterfall view4. God’s Window – The highest point that allows you to overlook the lowveld 3300 feet below.
We have lunch at Bourke’s Luck Potholes and are patronized by some annoying veret monkeys (pigeons of Africa).
After the last stop we depart for a short drive to Umhloti private game reserve and home of Jane Goodall Chimpanzee Institute. The lodge is above and beyond my expectations and a pleasant sight. We check into the lodge which is the best place I will stay on this trip.
The area we go to is the Blyde Rive Canyon. It is the third largest canyon in the world. We stop at four main view points which are all incredible views.1. The Three Rondavels – A look out over part of the canyon where in the distance there are three rock formations that look like a rondavel. A rondavel is a circle looking home with a straw roof.2. Bourke’s Luck Potholes – an area where the river flowed and the whirlpool action of the current carved out circular holes in the canyon rocks below. 3. Berlin Waterfall – a nice waterfall view4. God’s Window – The highest point that allows you to overlook the lowveld 3300 feet below.
We have lunch at Bourke’s Luck Potholes and are patronized by some annoying veret monkeys (pigeons of Africa).
After the last stop we depart for a short drive to Umhloti private game reserve and home of Jane Goodall Chimpanzee Institute. The lodge is above and beyond my expectations and a pleasant sight. We check into the lodge which is the best place I will stay on this trip.
Kruger Day Two
8-June “Kruger Day Two”
Everybody is up bright and early at 5:15 am. The day is started the day with a cup of coffee and a biscuit. Then we pile into the Land Rove and begin searching for the big five at 6:00 am.
We get into the main park quickly and immediately spot Impala. All of us are excited and our driver stops for a moment and quickly tells us there will be plenty of opportunities to see these animals. I still think it is cool regardless of what he said. We continue to drive until about 10:00 am, spotting zebra, buffalo, various birds, and lots and lots of impala. Compared to the day before this is incredible. The animals are right next to the road and are easy to see. Also, I’ve got the whole back row to myself, so I can bounce from side-to-side getting shots.
We have a bigger breakfast and lunch while out in the park. Then, we drive again until about 2:00 for lunch. The park is very easy to get around in. A standard car will easily get around the park for watching animals. The roads are either paved or excellent grated dirt. The large benefit of the Land Rover is sitting up so high off the ground. It makes viewing easier. After a full day we have seen three of the big five (buffalo, elephant, and rhinoceros). Our guide tells us that we kept missing the other two, leopard and lion, by a few minutes. Regardless, of not seeing the cats the day was amazing. We head back to the camp around 6:00 pm to take a shower and have dinner at 8:00. Everybody is exhausted and we’re all asleep by 10:00
Kruger Day One
7-June “Kruger Day One”4:30 am Knock! Knock! Peter your ride is here. Huh, what, Ok. What the !@$%! Why is my ride here so early. I get up and quickly put on some deodorant and straighten my hair. The hostel person is trying to figure out my final bill. All in all she is being very nice considering I thought I was being picked up at 7:00 am. We quickly settle up and I bring my bags down to the coach. It has been about 20 minutes and the driver has fallen asleep with the radio on. After a few taps on the window he wakes up and apologizes for being early. Now, I think I’m right, but he then says he was supposed to pick me up at 5:00 am. We’re quickly on our way to pick up the next group about 40 minutes away. He wants to chat, but I want to sleep. I try to make conversation, but I can’t recall much of it. The only thing that stuck was him talking about some type of tea that is considered African Viagra.
We have two stops to fill up the coach. We pick up a load of another five people after the 40 minute drive. One guy is from Brazil and the others are four American girls going to school in Cape Town. The next stop is about three hours away. We all fall asleep and about an hour from Nelspruit most of us are awake. The American girls start talking about their drunken nights in Cape Town, which quickly become routine: “You remember the time you were drunk and….passed out, couldn’t stop staring or made that comment.” Thank you Steve Jobs for the iPod! We stop in Nelspruit to pick up the remaining people. They end up being Austrians, Germans and a Northern Italian girl. Thankfully, I end up talking to a guy from Germany volunteering in Cape Town. This is so much better. However, during a pause in conversation the girls were still going strong reminiscing about their drunken nights. We stop a couple of times for food and gas. The driver is insistent on eating in the car to get their early. I’m guessing he wants to sleep.
We arrive at the main camp office just outside Kruger about 2:00 pm. We transfer our bags from the coach to the local Land Rovers. Our group is twelve persons, so we require two vehicles. I was the last one to go to the toilet so there are loaded except for me. I have a decision to either listen to German or drunken stories the next couple of days. I chose German. As we’re driving I learn where everybody is from. They had been traveling from Cape Town together. The Italian girl was volunteering too, and her friends came out to visit. She is from northern Italy which was at one point in history part of Austria, so she prefers to speak German instead of Italian. I had actually known this from a past college class I took about Roman history. For some reason my professor mentioned some more recent history tidbits and they had stuck with me. So, when I said she must be from the north close to Austria she was amazed I knew this.
We get to the camp after a quick 15 minute drive. I’m impressed. There is a pool, spa, large tent for lounging and eating, hot/cold showers and permanent tents. There is no electricity except when they run a diesel generator for a couple hours during the day to charge batteries. The tents are sorted and I get paired with the Brazilian guy. The tents are good. Linens and blankets are provided and you’re on a decent cot. I get in a nap since I was up so early.
Around 4:00 we get into our Land Rover and head out for a drive to see if we can find any animals. During the drive we come upon a giraffe and a buffalo off in the distance. I don’t have any expectations of how close we are going to get tomorrow, so I think this is it. I get in some photos, and I’m very happy I have my huge lenses to get some shots. Just before dark we drive to a lookout spot to watch the sunset and have a beer or wine. Once the sun goes down we pile into our vehicles again and go for a night drive, hoping to find a lion or leopard. It is now very cold and we are shining a huge spot light into the bush. We search for about 45 minutes but see nothing be elephant crap.
Dinner is set around a camp fire. The food is very good and the staff is absolutely great. Some of us chat around the fire until about 9:00 and then we go to bed to get up at 5:00 am.
We have two stops to fill up the coach. We pick up a load of another five people after the 40 minute drive. One guy is from Brazil and the others are four American girls going to school in Cape Town. The next stop is about three hours away. We all fall asleep and about an hour from Nelspruit most of us are awake. The American girls start talking about their drunken nights in Cape Town, which quickly become routine: “You remember the time you were drunk and….passed out, couldn’t stop staring or made that comment.” Thank you Steve Jobs for the iPod! We stop in Nelspruit to pick up the remaining people. They end up being Austrians, Germans and a Northern Italian girl. Thankfully, I end up talking to a guy from Germany volunteering in Cape Town. This is so much better. However, during a pause in conversation the girls were still going strong reminiscing about their drunken nights. We stop a couple of times for food and gas. The driver is insistent on eating in the car to get their early. I’m guessing he wants to sleep.
We arrive at the main camp office just outside Kruger about 2:00 pm. We transfer our bags from the coach to the local Land Rovers. Our group is twelve persons, so we require two vehicles. I was the last one to go to the toilet so there are loaded except for me. I have a decision to either listen to German or drunken stories the next couple of days. I chose German. As we’re driving I learn where everybody is from. They had been traveling from Cape Town together. The Italian girl was volunteering too, and her friends came out to visit. She is from northern Italy which was at one point in history part of Austria, so she prefers to speak German instead of Italian. I had actually known this from a past college class I took about Roman history. For some reason my professor mentioned some more recent history tidbits and they had stuck with me. So, when I said she must be from the north close to Austria she was amazed I knew this.
We get to the camp after a quick 15 minute drive. I’m impressed. There is a pool, spa, large tent for lounging and eating, hot/cold showers and permanent tents. There is no electricity except when they run a diesel generator for a couple hours during the day to charge batteries. The tents are sorted and I get paired with the Brazilian guy. The tents are good. Linens and blankets are provided and you’re on a decent cot. I get in a nap since I was up so early.
Around 4:00 we get into our Land Rover and head out for a drive to see if we can find any animals. During the drive we come upon a giraffe and a buffalo off in the distance. I don’t have any expectations of how close we are going to get tomorrow, so I think this is it. I get in some photos, and I’m very happy I have my huge lenses to get some shots. Just before dark we drive to a lookout spot to watch the sunset and have a beer or wine. Once the sun goes down we pile into our vehicles again and go for a night drive, hoping to find a lion or leopard. It is now very cold and we are shining a huge spot light into the bush. We search for about 45 minutes but see nothing be elephant crap.
Dinner is set around a camp fire. The food is very good and the staff is absolutely great. Some of us chat around the fire until about 9:00 and then we go to bed to get up at 5:00 am.
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Saturday, June 16, 2007
12 Hours to go
I've got 12 hours until race time. I arrived in Durban Thursday night after a long coach ride from Swaziland. Yesterday morning the race organizers had three buses to take the international and novice runners on a tour of the course. We took the regular highway up to Pietermaritzburg. Then, had tea at the Comrades house. This is where they have pictures and memorabilia from past races and competitors. After tea, we drove along the actual course stopping at some key points. Along the way I started to get excited and nervous. After about five hours we arrived back in Durban. I registered for the race without any issues and talked to other runners at the expo.
I got back to the hostel and found out there are five of us running. We're going to share a taxi in the morning to the bus pickup at 2:30 am. The past couple of days I've been getting mentally prepared. Dinner is on the way from a local pasta place and then off to bed with the iPod.
At this point I'm about as ready as I can be.
You can track my progress by going to www.comrades.com and under results (another window will open) enter my race number - 39472. Also, I hope to post my physical and mental progress via sms to this blog.
Until tomorrow...
PS - I have a lot of other updates, but I can't find a wireless Internet cafe to get them off my laptop. In short, Swaziland, Kruger park and the rest of the trip has been awesome! I've finally saw lions in Swaziland!
I got back to the hostel and found out there are five of us running. We're going to share a taxi in the morning to the bus pickup at 2:30 am. The past couple of days I've been getting mentally prepared. Dinner is on the way from a local pasta place and then off to bed with the iPod.
At this point I'm about as ready as I can be.
You can track my progress by going to www.comrades.com and under results (another window will open) enter my race number - 39472. Also, I hope to post my physical and mental progress via sms to this blog.
Until tomorrow...
PS - I have a lot of other updates, but I can't find a wireless Internet cafe to get them off my laptop. In short, Swaziland, Kruger park and the rest of the trip has been awesome! I've finally saw lions in Swaziland!
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Finally an update...
I’m writing this post from the Bangkok airport on my way to Johannesburg. I’m going to start with a description of the Full Moon Party.
The warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand spotted in the distance with various islands big and small, including what looks like a jagged rock sticking out of the water. Close to shore are 30-40 taxi speed boats bobbing in the shallow water with passengers jumping into knee deep water. You can’t tell if they have already had a few drinks or if the ride over is making them sway to shore – a few drinks would be the safe bet. Some know what to expect, but most don’t. The time is about 8:00 pm and there is no sign of the sun remaining, yet there is plenty of light. From behind you can hear overlapping party music. There is drum and base from the left and hip hop from the right with pop sprinkled in. Turn around 180 degrees and the beach is about 400 meters long and half full of tourists from everywhere. The locals say there are about 20,000 people and 40,000 show up during peak season. Fire dancers are randomly about the beach twirling sticks or swinging fireballs on a rope. Peddlers are trying to sell a picture of you with their monkey or iguana. Suddenly, the 50 foot wire frame on the beach lights up with “Full Moon Party 2007 Thailand.” As you walk toward the bars and clubs lining the beach tables are selling “buckets” for 200 baht. Pick your liquor and mixer and it is poured into one of those red or green buckets children use for building a sandcastle. It is enough for 3-4 people. After dancing in the foam party bar and grabbing a random bite to eat after five hours, you start to notice the beach populated by passed out folk who tried to tackle “The Bucket” alone. Unfortunately, the sand in their hair won’t compare to finding out they were pick pocketed while passed out. The partying continues until 11:00 am the next morning. If you planned correctly you can catch the first taxi boat back at 3:00 am, but nothing beats watching the sun come up after a good night out.
1-June “Full Moon”
My first day in Koh Samui consisted of sleeping on the beach. Before I left Bangkok I Googled “most fun accommodation Koh Samui.” The search result - Ark Bar. I would recommend it for the peak season, but not necessarily for the off season. There were a number of other places within 50 m that were similar for about 2/3 the cost. However, I defiantly recommend the restaurant and bar any time of year. The food was excellent and at a great price. A meal was between $2 and $4 right on the beach. At sunset they convert the sunning area to a nice lounge area with pillows and chairs.
After waking up, I went to the reception and inquired about the Full Moon Party. A ticket over to the island included transfer to/from the hotel and the taxi boat.
I was picked up and dropped off at the boat pickup. I just missed the boat and while waiting there were a few other guys waiting. I ended up hanging out with a guy from England most of the night. We met a ton of other folks from all over and had a great time. I caught the 6:30 am taxi back and was asleep around 8:00 am
So, the Full Moon Party wasn’t quite what I expected, but at the same time was more than I expected. I was under the impression there would be more locals, but was surprised at the number of people. The only downer of the night was the number of people being pick pocketed. Apparently, kids come over from the mainland for the party and rob bungalows and pickpocket people during the party.
Last Thoughts - Interesting how you pick up other dialects. From now on all girls are going to be call birds.
2-June “Recovery”
I got up around 1:00 and had breakfast/lunch. I pretty much spent the day wandering the main strip of Chaweng. It is a typical tourist area with bars, restaurants, $2 DVD shops and stalls of fake designer stuff. All the knockoff stuff was twice that of Beijing. The big adventure for the day was taking a motorcycle taxi to Tesco to buy a few things.
The night was split between the Ark Bar and Green Mango. At Ark Bar I learned from another British guy how the tourist visa works and how people can stay almost indefinitely. So, when you arrive you are issued a 30 tourist visa which can be extended two more times by leaving the country. Most people take a trip to Malaysia since it is the closest country to popular areas (there are services that will take you there and back in less than a day). After two extensions you can apply for a tourist visa which is good for two more months. The tourist visa negates the other visas issued at the border crossings. Once the two months is up you start the whole process over again. The guy that told me all this had already been in Thailand for eight months and was getting ready to make a Visa run next week. I was still feeling the night before and I had booked an island tour for the next day, so I called it an early night, well at least compared to the previous night.
3-June “Funny Day Safari”
The name of the tour alone meant it wasn’t going to be half bad. Getting into it I already knew it wasn’t a safari, but a ride around the island looking at the most popular spots. I’ve always had a mixed opinion on tours. The benefit is they let you no worry about how to get to each place, but many times they end up being just a shopping trip to prearranged markets.
I’m the first person picked up at the hotel. The truck is an open back Jeep/Land Rover vehicle that can seat up to 10 people. Fortunately, the next pickup would be the last with only three of us in the truck. The others were two girls that had met each other at the Full Moon Party. The downer is that they were robbed. A pickpocket took their bag with all their Ids and credit cards.
The first stop is to the Grandfather and Grandmother rock. You’ll have to see the pictures when they are posted because it is just to funny to believe. The two rock formations are named appropriately after the grandparents genders. Only in Thailand would you find such a “nature site”
Stop two: Elephant trek and Crocodile farm. The elephant trek wasn’t all that great. You are mounted on an elephant two at a time with a driver sitting on the animal’s head. You traverse on its back through a short 15 minute loop around the park. Since I was the odd man I rode solo with the driver. At one point he let me get out of my seat and sit on its head. If it wasn’t for that moment I could have skipped the ride. The monkey playing with the dog in the parking lot was more entertaining. After 75-100 people finished their rides we all watched a typical elephant show. The standard tricks: various poses, hula hoop around the trunk and them playing soccer. Then, everybody walked over to the Croc show, but on the way we first watched a monkey climb a palm tree and knock down the coconuts. We all sit down again to watch a guy and girl “play” with the crocs. They pulled them around the pool and put their hands and head into their mouths. Discovery channel makes it look more risky. The crocs never moved. Thy must all be properly fed and the heat of the day reduced their risk. Don’t get me wrong though. There is no way in hell that I would put my head into a crocs mouth.
Stop three: Waterfalls and jungle walk. A 20 minute walk takes you to the bottom of a waterfall in the jungle of the island. Since our group is small and our driver is slightly nuts we were able to get to each site before the other tour groups. After about 20-30 minutes it was time to head to the next stop.
Stop four: Magic Garden. Being the first at this site made it a great opportunity to take pictures without the other tourists. The “Garden” is about 35 years old but looks like an ancient site. Statues and small mossy buildings are sprinkled near in the jungle. It looked like a scene out of Indiana Jones.
Stop five: Mountain View Point and Lunch. The food for lunch was actually decent. We ate with all the other tour groups, but since we were small we were the first to arrive and leave. After lunch we went to a look out spot that gave a nice view of the island. On the way to the three of us sat on the roof of the cab. The local kids loved watching us drive by, laughing. The roads are a mixture of paved concrete and dirt. The concrete would end for no apparent reason. This explained the reason for the jeep vehicles. There is no way a small car is making it on those back roads. The locals drove nothing but truck and mostly motorbikes.
Stop six: Mummified monk. A Buddhist monk some 30+ years ago passed away. His body has hardly decayed over the years and they have placed his body in a glass case in a meditation position. The name is misleading because there was no mummification processes down to his body.
Stop Seven(last stop) – Big Buddha. The name says it all. A very large Buddha statue at the edge of the island.
All-in-all the tour was pretty good. The small group and a decent guide defiantly made it worth it.
I get back to the hotel and run into Ben, the guy I met at the Full Moon Party. He grabbed dinner with me and told me he was doing “The Beach” kayak trip tomorrow and tried to convince me to go with him so he wouldn’t have to be the solo guy that rode with the tour guide. The trip is where the book/movie “The Beach” is based.
Talking to the booking agent and getting him to reduce the cost of the trip I signed up. If you go to Thailand, especially in the off season, all things are negotiable. We got the tour price reduce from 2000 B to 1700 B
The night consisted of the Ark Bar again. One of the girls from the tour stopped by and had a drink. The main bar area just didn’t sound very appealing and I needed to pack and get ready for South Africa since I would be leaving for my flight right after the kayak trip.
4-June “The Beach”
I had packed the night before and was ready to be picked up at 7:00. I left my stuff with the front desk. I wasn’t happy leaving it there after hearing about all the thefts at the other island, but I didn’t have a choice.
The taxi bus stopped at five hotels to pick up others and dropped us off at the boat dock. The boat had about 50-60 people with half being German. We all headed out to sea for a two hour ride to the national park. Ben and I end up talking it up with two Australian guys on vacation.
We get to the first location and half the group snorkels while the other half get into a kayak. I’m in the snorkel group. This time of year is when the tide is the lowest. It makes terrible for snorkeling because the water is cloudy and the fish aren’t in their normal spots. However, the low tide makes for great kayaking.
After the first group is done we load up into the kayaks and follow the leader. We paddle up next to the small rocky islands. With the low tide we can paddle under the cliffs and through all sorts of small tunnels. When the tide is high the areas we were in fill with water and aren’t accessible. This is above and a beyond what I was expecting. Paddling into little tunnels was just amazing.
On the way to the next stop we have lunch. Curry chicken and rice hit the spot. We arrive to the location where “The Beach” is based. We split into two groups again. The first group kayaks while we take a smaller boat to the shore to do a walk to the location of the hidden salt water lake in the middle of the island. A 20 minute climb takes us to the top of the hill that overlooks the lake. So, in the movie Leonardo dives under the island to find the hidden beach. There are two problems with this. First, there is no way to dive under the island. Divers couldn’t find an accessible way to get under it. Second, there is no beach. After talking to the tour guide he says that the location inspired the author and most of the movie was shot on islands elsewhere in Thailand. We hike back down and it is our turn to paddle the kayaks back to the boat. We go through some more areas where there are overhangs and eventually the two groups are ready to head back.
Another two hour boat trip back. My only concern is making my flight back to Bangkok. If I miss the flight to Johannesburg I’d have to wait another three days until the next one. We get back in time. I take a quick shower and head off to the airport.
The flight back is only 80 minutes with plenty of time to spare before my connection.
5-June “Joburg”
The flight was about 12 hours, leaving at 12:30 am. The nice thing is that the flight was only about half full on an Airbus 340 (nice and big). Everybody had at least two seats to themselves. I was kind of able to lay down and get a decent amount of sleep.
We get off the lane and get to immigration. There are only three people working! One queue is for South Africans, one for African States, and one for everybody else. The queue for everyone else is at least 200 deep and more people piling in from flights that just landed. An announcement comes on and says the African States is available for everybody. I quickly run to the line and gained at least 50 people. I looked back after 10 minutes and the entire room is filled with people. As I’m talking to the lady next to me she tells me that there is a country wide strike including all public services. Later in the night I talk to some other travelers that waited over three hours to clear immigration. I was no longer unhappy that my flight landed so early.
I get picked up and drive back to the hostel.
The hostel is in a mostly residential neighborhood. I can’t recall if I’ve ever stayed in a hostel so outside a city center. As were driving it is a typical looking neighborhood, but every house has gates on every window and a fence with barbed/razor wire around it. Even though the neighborhood is relatively safe all of this is required for security.
The staff is a bit wacky but overall the place is clean and interesting. I hung out most of the day at the hostel. Since the hostel is away from major shopping and it isn’t wise to walk around, especially at night, they offer a shuttle service to and from a mall and other popular destinations. I need some food and found out that my so-called universal plug adapter does not work in South Africa. I get on one of the trips to the mall. It is no different that a shopping mall in the US. All the typical stores and layout even with a food court. I’m happy to get my adapter and some additional memory for my camera. I get back. Have dinner and head straight to bed by 8:00.
6-June “Soweto”
Today is a tour of Soweto and the Apartheid Museum. I arrange the tour through the hostel. My driver/guide picks me up around 10:30. He has lived in Johannesburg all his life and has been giving tours of Soweto for about five years.
Soweto is a township about five miles Southwest of Johannesburg. The name means Southwest Township. This is the place where the Apartheid uprising started. The township’s population is about 4 million people. We drive through all types of neighborhoods. There are all sorts of homes. From your typical house to a shack with no power, bathroom, or running water. We drive through one of the poorer areas and I get out to meet a man and woman outside their home. She invites me in to show me a two bedroom place. There is no electricity, but a TV sits in the corner with dust on it. There are beds and couches in both rooms. All of them have the cushioning worn to nothing. The “kitchen” is a makeshift table with small wood burning stoves. In the center of one of the rooms a small fire is cooking a pot of stew. The roof is a mixture of metal and plastic corrugated sheets. Eleven people live in the two room home, yet the woman is optimistic and yearns for her government built home. She says she can expect a better place by 2010. She lets me take a picture of her and one of the others that live there. I head back into my car thinking how lucky I am. We continue to drive through other neighborhoods. People on the street are wandering around or trying to sell something to get by. Ahead a group of guy have lit a tire on fire to stay warm and dry. Even though things are tough they all say hello to each other and most are laughing.
We stop shortly at a street intersection. On the same street two noble peace prize winners lived. Dezmund Tutu and Nelson Mandela. A few minutes later we arrive at the Youth Day Memorial. It is to remember those that died in the uprising. Other tourists are looking while a few street vendors are selling South African mementos. I talk to one of the vendors for about a half hour. He is a genuine person and so interested in everything. His outlook is great and is confident he will be ok. He is selling bicycles, cars and other figures he bends out of piano wire. It is hard to break the conversation, but we are to continue onto the rest of the drive.
As we drive I think about places in the US that compare, but none on the magnitude of this. Also, I’ve seen poorer places in the world, but they have an opportunity to improve. However, this exists because of laws that prevented people from becoming better.
After the drive I get dropped off at the Apartheid museum. The museum reinforces everything I just witnessed. It is amazing that there is not more animosity between the races. There is a lot to go, but so much has already changed in the past seventeen years.
On the way back to the hostel we drive through downtown Johannesburg. There is poverty everywhere. Businesses have left their buildings and homeless now inhabit them. They have all left for Northern Johannesburg.
The day will live with me forever.
I’m on my way to Kruger National Park tomorrow for a four day safari. After Kruger I head to Swaziland and then to Durban. I’m not sure how available the internet is going to be until I get to Durban, so I’m not sure when my next post will be. Stay tunded.
The warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand spotted in the distance with various islands big and small, including what looks like a jagged rock sticking out of the water. Close to shore are 30-40 taxi speed boats bobbing in the shallow water with passengers jumping into knee deep water. You can’t tell if they have already had a few drinks or if the ride over is making them sway to shore – a few drinks would be the safe bet. Some know what to expect, but most don’t. The time is about 8:00 pm and there is no sign of the sun remaining, yet there is plenty of light. From behind you can hear overlapping party music. There is drum and base from the left and hip hop from the right with pop sprinkled in. Turn around 180 degrees and the beach is about 400 meters long and half full of tourists from everywhere. The locals say there are about 20,000 people and 40,000 show up during peak season. Fire dancers are randomly about the beach twirling sticks or swinging fireballs on a rope. Peddlers are trying to sell a picture of you with their monkey or iguana. Suddenly, the 50 foot wire frame on the beach lights up with “Full Moon Party 2007 Thailand.” As you walk toward the bars and clubs lining the beach tables are selling “buckets” for 200 baht. Pick your liquor and mixer and it is poured into one of those red or green buckets children use for building a sandcastle. It is enough for 3-4 people. After dancing in the foam party bar and grabbing a random bite to eat after five hours, you start to notice the beach populated by passed out folk who tried to tackle “The Bucket” alone. Unfortunately, the sand in their hair won’t compare to finding out they were pick pocketed while passed out. The partying continues until 11:00 am the next morning. If you planned correctly you can catch the first taxi boat back at 3:00 am, but nothing beats watching the sun come up after a good night out.
1-June “Full Moon”
My first day in Koh Samui consisted of sleeping on the beach. Before I left Bangkok I Googled “most fun accommodation Koh Samui.” The search result - Ark Bar. I would recommend it for the peak season, but not necessarily for the off season. There were a number of other places within 50 m that were similar for about 2/3 the cost. However, I defiantly recommend the restaurant and bar any time of year. The food was excellent and at a great price. A meal was between $2 and $4 right on the beach. At sunset they convert the sunning area to a nice lounge area with pillows and chairs.
After waking up, I went to the reception and inquired about the Full Moon Party. A ticket over to the island included transfer to/from the hotel and the taxi boat.
I was picked up and dropped off at the boat pickup. I just missed the boat and while waiting there were a few other guys waiting. I ended up hanging out with a guy from England most of the night. We met a ton of other folks from all over and had a great time. I caught the 6:30 am taxi back and was asleep around 8:00 am
So, the Full Moon Party wasn’t quite what I expected, but at the same time was more than I expected. I was under the impression there would be more locals, but was surprised at the number of people. The only downer of the night was the number of people being pick pocketed. Apparently, kids come over from the mainland for the party and rob bungalows and pickpocket people during the party.
Last Thoughts - Interesting how you pick up other dialects. From now on all girls are going to be call birds.
2-June “Recovery”
I got up around 1:00 and had breakfast/lunch. I pretty much spent the day wandering the main strip of Chaweng. It is a typical tourist area with bars, restaurants, $2 DVD shops and stalls of fake designer stuff. All the knockoff stuff was twice that of Beijing. The big adventure for the day was taking a motorcycle taxi to Tesco to buy a few things.
The night was split between the Ark Bar and Green Mango. At Ark Bar I learned from another British guy how the tourist visa works and how people can stay almost indefinitely. So, when you arrive you are issued a 30 tourist visa which can be extended two more times by leaving the country. Most people take a trip to Malaysia since it is the closest country to popular areas (there are services that will take you there and back in less than a day). After two extensions you can apply for a tourist visa which is good for two more months. The tourist visa negates the other visas issued at the border crossings. Once the two months is up you start the whole process over again. The guy that told me all this had already been in Thailand for eight months and was getting ready to make a Visa run next week. I was still feeling the night before and I had booked an island tour for the next day, so I called it an early night, well at least compared to the previous night.
3-June “Funny Day Safari”
The name of the tour alone meant it wasn’t going to be half bad. Getting into it I already knew it wasn’t a safari, but a ride around the island looking at the most popular spots. I’ve always had a mixed opinion on tours. The benefit is they let you no worry about how to get to each place, but many times they end up being just a shopping trip to prearranged markets.
I’m the first person picked up at the hotel. The truck is an open back Jeep/Land Rover vehicle that can seat up to 10 people. Fortunately, the next pickup would be the last with only three of us in the truck. The others were two girls that had met each other at the Full Moon Party. The downer is that they were robbed. A pickpocket took their bag with all their Ids and credit cards.
The first stop is to the Grandfather and Grandmother rock. You’ll have to see the pictures when they are posted because it is just to funny to believe. The two rock formations are named appropriately after the grandparents genders. Only in Thailand would you find such a “nature site”
Stop two: Elephant trek and Crocodile farm. The elephant trek wasn’t all that great. You are mounted on an elephant two at a time with a driver sitting on the animal’s head. You traverse on its back through a short 15 minute loop around the park. Since I was the odd man I rode solo with the driver. At one point he let me get out of my seat and sit on its head. If it wasn’t for that moment I could have skipped the ride. The monkey playing with the dog in the parking lot was more entertaining. After 75-100 people finished their rides we all watched a typical elephant show. The standard tricks: various poses, hula hoop around the trunk and them playing soccer. Then, everybody walked over to the Croc show, but on the way we first watched a monkey climb a palm tree and knock down the coconuts. We all sit down again to watch a guy and girl “play” with the crocs. They pulled them around the pool and put their hands and head into their mouths. Discovery channel makes it look more risky. The crocs never moved. Thy must all be properly fed and the heat of the day reduced their risk. Don’t get me wrong though. There is no way in hell that I would put my head into a crocs mouth.
Stop three: Waterfalls and jungle walk. A 20 minute walk takes you to the bottom of a waterfall in the jungle of the island. Since our group is small and our driver is slightly nuts we were able to get to each site before the other tour groups. After about 20-30 minutes it was time to head to the next stop.
Stop four: Magic Garden. Being the first at this site made it a great opportunity to take pictures without the other tourists. The “Garden” is about 35 years old but looks like an ancient site. Statues and small mossy buildings are sprinkled near in the jungle. It looked like a scene out of Indiana Jones.
Stop five: Mountain View Point and Lunch. The food for lunch was actually decent. We ate with all the other tour groups, but since we were small we were the first to arrive and leave. After lunch we went to a look out spot that gave a nice view of the island. On the way to the three of us sat on the roof of the cab. The local kids loved watching us drive by, laughing. The roads are a mixture of paved concrete and dirt. The concrete would end for no apparent reason. This explained the reason for the jeep vehicles. There is no way a small car is making it on those back roads. The locals drove nothing but truck and mostly motorbikes.
Stop six: Mummified monk. A Buddhist monk some 30+ years ago passed away. His body has hardly decayed over the years and they have placed his body in a glass case in a meditation position. The name is misleading because there was no mummification processes down to his body.
Stop Seven(last stop) – Big Buddha. The name says it all. A very large Buddha statue at the edge of the island.
All-in-all the tour was pretty good. The small group and a decent guide defiantly made it worth it.
I get back to the hotel and run into Ben, the guy I met at the Full Moon Party. He grabbed dinner with me and told me he was doing “The Beach” kayak trip tomorrow and tried to convince me to go with him so he wouldn’t have to be the solo guy that rode with the tour guide. The trip is where the book/movie “The Beach” is based.
Talking to the booking agent and getting him to reduce the cost of the trip I signed up. If you go to Thailand, especially in the off season, all things are negotiable. We got the tour price reduce from 2000 B to 1700 B
The night consisted of the Ark Bar again. One of the girls from the tour stopped by and had a drink. The main bar area just didn’t sound very appealing and I needed to pack and get ready for South Africa since I would be leaving for my flight right after the kayak trip.
4-June “The Beach”
I had packed the night before and was ready to be picked up at 7:00. I left my stuff with the front desk. I wasn’t happy leaving it there after hearing about all the thefts at the other island, but I didn’t have a choice.
The taxi bus stopped at five hotels to pick up others and dropped us off at the boat dock. The boat had about 50-60 people with half being German. We all headed out to sea for a two hour ride to the national park. Ben and I end up talking it up with two Australian guys on vacation.
We get to the first location and half the group snorkels while the other half get into a kayak. I’m in the snorkel group. This time of year is when the tide is the lowest. It makes terrible for snorkeling because the water is cloudy and the fish aren’t in their normal spots. However, the low tide makes for great kayaking.
After the first group is done we load up into the kayaks and follow the leader. We paddle up next to the small rocky islands. With the low tide we can paddle under the cliffs and through all sorts of small tunnels. When the tide is high the areas we were in fill with water and aren’t accessible. This is above and a beyond what I was expecting. Paddling into little tunnels was just amazing.
On the way to the next stop we have lunch. Curry chicken and rice hit the spot. We arrive to the location where “The Beach” is based. We split into two groups again. The first group kayaks while we take a smaller boat to the shore to do a walk to the location of the hidden salt water lake in the middle of the island. A 20 minute climb takes us to the top of the hill that overlooks the lake. So, in the movie Leonardo dives under the island to find the hidden beach. There are two problems with this. First, there is no way to dive under the island. Divers couldn’t find an accessible way to get under it. Second, there is no beach. After talking to the tour guide he says that the location inspired the author and most of the movie was shot on islands elsewhere in Thailand. We hike back down and it is our turn to paddle the kayaks back to the boat. We go through some more areas where there are overhangs and eventually the two groups are ready to head back.
Another two hour boat trip back. My only concern is making my flight back to Bangkok. If I miss the flight to Johannesburg I’d have to wait another three days until the next one. We get back in time. I take a quick shower and head off to the airport.
The flight back is only 80 minutes with plenty of time to spare before my connection.
5-June “Joburg”
The flight was about 12 hours, leaving at 12:30 am. The nice thing is that the flight was only about half full on an Airbus 340 (nice and big). Everybody had at least two seats to themselves. I was kind of able to lay down and get a decent amount of sleep.
We get off the lane and get to immigration. There are only three people working! One queue is for South Africans, one for African States, and one for everybody else. The queue for everyone else is at least 200 deep and more people piling in from flights that just landed. An announcement comes on and says the African States is available for everybody. I quickly run to the line and gained at least 50 people. I looked back after 10 minutes and the entire room is filled with people. As I’m talking to the lady next to me she tells me that there is a country wide strike including all public services. Later in the night I talk to some other travelers that waited over three hours to clear immigration. I was no longer unhappy that my flight landed so early.
I get picked up and drive back to the hostel.
The hostel is in a mostly residential neighborhood. I can’t recall if I’ve ever stayed in a hostel so outside a city center. As were driving it is a typical looking neighborhood, but every house has gates on every window and a fence with barbed/razor wire around it. Even though the neighborhood is relatively safe all of this is required for security.
The staff is a bit wacky but overall the place is clean and interesting. I hung out most of the day at the hostel. Since the hostel is away from major shopping and it isn’t wise to walk around, especially at night, they offer a shuttle service to and from a mall and other popular destinations. I need some food and found out that my so-called universal plug adapter does not work in South Africa. I get on one of the trips to the mall. It is no different that a shopping mall in the US. All the typical stores and layout even with a food court. I’m happy to get my adapter and some additional memory for my camera. I get back. Have dinner and head straight to bed by 8:00.
6-June “Soweto”
Today is a tour of Soweto and the Apartheid Museum. I arrange the tour through the hostel. My driver/guide picks me up around 10:30. He has lived in Johannesburg all his life and has been giving tours of Soweto for about five years.
Soweto is a township about five miles Southwest of Johannesburg. The name means Southwest Township. This is the place where the Apartheid uprising started. The township’s population is about 4 million people. We drive through all types of neighborhoods. There are all sorts of homes. From your typical house to a shack with no power, bathroom, or running water. We drive through one of the poorer areas and I get out to meet a man and woman outside their home. She invites me in to show me a two bedroom place. There is no electricity, but a TV sits in the corner with dust on it. There are beds and couches in both rooms. All of them have the cushioning worn to nothing. The “kitchen” is a makeshift table with small wood burning stoves. In the center of one of the rooms a small fire is cooking a pot of stew. The roof is a mixture of metal and plastic corrugated sheets. Eleven people live in the two room home, yet the woman is optimistic and yearns for her government built home. She says she can expect a better place by 2010. She lets me take a picture of her and one of the others that live there. I head back into my car thinking how lucky I am. We continue to drive through other neighborhoods. People on the street are wandering around or trying to sell something to get by. Ahead a group of guy have lit a tire on fire to stay warm and dry. Even though things are tough they all say hello to each other and most are laughing.
We stop shortly at a street intersection. On the same street two noble peace prize winners lived. Dezmund Tutu and Nelson Mandela. A few minutes later we arrive at the Youth Day Memorial. It is to remember those that died in the uprising. Other tourists are looking while a few street vendors are selling South African mementos. I talk to one of the vendors for about a half hour. He is a genuine person and so interested in everything. His outlook is great and is confident he will be ok. He is selling bicycles, cars and other figures he bends out of piano wire. It is hard to break the conversation, but we are to continue onto the rest of the drive.
As we drive I think about places in the US that compare, but none on the magnitude of this. Also, I’ve seen poorer places in the world, but they have an opportunity to improve. However, this exists because of laws that prevented people from becoming better.
After the drive I get dropped off at the Apartheid museum. The museum reinforces everything I just witnessed. It is amazing that there is not more animosity between the races. There is a lot to go, but so much has already changed in the past seventeen years.
On the way back to the hostel we drive through downtown Johannesburg. There is poverty everywhere. Businesses have left their buildings and homeless now inhabit them. They have all left for Northern Johannesburg.
The day will live with me forever.
I’m on my way to Kruger National Park tomorrow for a four day safari. After Kruger I head to Swaziland and then to Durban. I’m not sure how available the internet is going to be until I get to Durban, so I’m not sure when my next post will be. Stay tunded.
Tuesday, June 5, 2007
South Africa Starts
I arrived in South Africa today and I'm just getting settled. I've got a bunch of updates from Koh Samui, but there is no access for my laptop; where all my posts are sitting. Also, I was hoping to post some pics, but we'll see.
Hopefully, I'll be able to post a full update before I head out to Kruger National Park for my first Safari.
Talk to you all soon.
Hopefully, I'll be able to post a full update before I head out to Kruger National Park for my first Safari.
Talk to you all soon.
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